As mentioned in a previous entry, I booked myself two nights at a Jasper hotel over the past weekend so that I could enjoy the tail end of winter in the mountains. I chose to stay at the Whistler's Inn right in the heart of Jasper's downtown section in order to minimize my driving. The Edmonton area was absolutely walloped by a severe winter storm the day before I was scheduled to leave, so I was afraid that the drive would be a nightmare. As it turned out, the highways west of Edmonton were just fine once I got a few kilometers out of the city. It was dry and sunny the whole way, and since I was traveling alone I sang along to my iPod to my heart's content! (A major perk of solo traveling, just so you know.)
Once I got close enough to see the mountains I could feel my heart soaring. The sun reflecting off the snow covered peaks was mesmerizing. I'll never understand how anyone can speed through the mountains when they're driving, but I guess if you see it everyday it's not as special. I had a grin pasted on my face the whole time.
Stopping briefly in Hinton to stock up a few grocery items and some wine, I made it to Jasper in plenty of time to check in and do a bit of shopping before the Maligne Canyon ice walk tour I had scheduled. The hotel was in an excellent location and boasted two outdoor hot tubs on the roof. Those were the good points. The not so good points....it is an older hotel with very thin walls and a musty smell. The other hotel patrons tended to be very young and prone to drunken partying in the hallways. I think I might have been the only one that wasn't part of their group, as they all seemed to leave their doors open to wander back and forth into the early morning hours.
I decided to take a wander around town and explore the charming shops that lined the streets in abundance. I spent a happy hour window shopping before it was time to get changed for my Ice Walk tour. The company that was taking me was located right across the street. I discovered one of the drawbacks of traveling alone when the other group members showed up. It was comprised of three couples and myself. Hmm. I cracked a joke about it, and we all got along just fine after that. A short bus ride later, we were ready to explore the canyon floor. It is only in the winter and early spring that the canyon is accessible on foot- in the summer it's a raging river. We were supplied with waterproof boots (a necessity), and crampons to help keep us from slipping. There was still plenty of slipping on the icy paths, but I'm sure it could have been worse. The walk was fascinating and surreal. Recent warmer temperatures had caused some spectacular ice formations for us to enjoy.
Pictured below: Some of the ice formations; a view from the bottom of the canyon where a river is normally running; an ice climber (look closely!); and an ice cavern that we went inside.
Towards the end of the hike our guide asked if we were all interested in some cave exploration. Being an adventurous group, the answer was a resounding yes! I've always been interested in spelunking and figured this would be an easy introduction. Not so much, as it turned out! Once we got to the mouth of the cave he warned us that the first 20 feet or so had to be navigated on our stomachs, slithering like snakes, so if any of us were claustrophobic we should probably sit it out. Only one woman opted to do so (and it sure wasn't me- claustrophobia has never been one of my issues.) We put on some headlamps and slithered in one at a time. As you can imagine it wasn't exactly gentle, sliding across jagged rocks and ice. It did occur to me halfway through that I bruise ridiculously easily and would probably have colorful arms and legs in a couple days. (Incidentally I was right...my legs are a horror show right now!) It was so worth it though; we got through the narrow passage and climbed down to a larger, open chamber where I felt a sense of awe knowing that the weight of a mountain was on top of us at that moment. The air smelled earthy and warm, and when our guide suggested that we all turn off our headlamps for a few moments, the most complete darkness that I have ever experienced descended on me. It was like sensory deprivation...I felt like I had black velvet over my eyes. If one of the women hadn't been a bit squeamish and turned her lamp back on right away, I could have basked in it a lot longer.
We squirmed our way back out of the cave without incident and hiked back to the van, stopping along the way to try berries from a juniper bush. They tasted very intense, and very much like a concentrated burst of the gin that is distilled from them. I actually quite liked it... I might give martinis another try sometimes. We got dropped off at our respective hotels and parted ways.
I decided that I simply had to try out the rooftop hot tubs at that point, being a little sore from the cave exploration. I took a glass of wine along, which is actually allowed in this hotel, and was pleased to see that I had both hot tubs all to myself. It's a lot more relaxing to stretch out in an unladylike fashion when there's no one around to observe you! Ahhhh....best feeling ever! At some point during the brief period that I had been inside, the clear evening had clouded over and was flurrying like mad. Of course it doesn't matter when you're in a hot tub. I thoroughly enjoyed my soak, complete with wine.
The next day I slept quite late thanks to the late-night revellers...they got up early so I took advantage of the quiet and basked in my bed until nearly noon. Being a mom, this is a rare treat! I had a late breakfast/lunch and wandered across the street to the Parks Canada office. I asked where the best snowshoeing trails were and found out that most of them had very little snow left. But he gave me a map and suggested a trail right outside of town called the Valley of the Five Lakes. I took the short drive out there and found that he hadn't been kidding- there was hardly any snow at the trailhead. I took my chances, hoping it would be better further out. I had the trail to myself completely, which surprised me considering how beautiful it was outside. There was more snow once I got past the first short section, and I happily crunched along the ice and snow, enjoying the smell of the trees. The trail crossed a wooden bridge and rose higher, making for a gorgeous panoramic view of the mountains. As I stood enjoying the sight, a group of deer made their way past me, completely unafraid (as is typical of wildlife in the national parks). I never did make it as far as the lakes indicated in the title, but I still had a lovely walk.
That evening was spent walking around town again, watching the completely tame elk in the town square, and eating delicious pizza from The North Face pizzeria. I had gone down to the pub the previous night, and decided that tonight I would just stay in once I was done my walk. I snuggled up in bed with the rest of my pizza, white wine and Netflix on my iPad. (The tv reception was awful.) I fell asleep early... I'm such an old woman! Ha ha. But it felt gooood.
Going home the next day it was just as beautiful and sunny, but the drive was tinged with slight sadness that the mountains were now at my back. I immediately started formulating a plan for my next trip, which will be all about hiking. I felt better knowing that I would be back soon. Jasper, I adore you....so beautiful, and right in my backyard! Until next time...I will just have to enjoy my memories.
